Day 20 – Cilipi to Split



Still very queasy – up a few times in the night – dinner, though fairly bland, didn’t sit well, or for long.

Breakfast was included, and looked good, but the thought of food made me ill; I had a coffee and an OJ, packed and hit the road. only 20-and-a-bit Km to Dubrovnic.

There is an almost unbroken line of cliffs along the Croatian coast, and the road stays about halfway up, but does descend into bays where there is the occasional small village, and then climbs back up to halfway again. Lots of tour buses on the road, and crowds of them clustered around lookouts, making a narrow road even narrower. Great viewsdubthough….

Dubrovnic is in two parts; the old town, with it’s walled harbour and castle, and a sprawling hinterland that covers the rest of the saddle, and the bay beyond, which is the main port – all those pretty bobbing-up-and-down fishing boats are in the old harbour, and still comprise a working fleet.

The road passes by high above; there is a turn off for the old town, which dives down the cliff side, dropping like a stone, into steep, narrow and twisting streets, now set up as a one-way loop, as it’s full of tour buses, campervans, tradesmen and such – absolutely packed, wall to wall.

The end of the drop is into a small square between the castle walls and the tiny harbour. It would be beautiful, I’m sure, if you could see any of it through the throng. Cafes with tables jammed everywhere, dozens of buses lining the edge, and several thousand tourists, peppered with spruikers for tours, castle walks, the GoT experience, etc.  Overwhelming. And not cheap. To walk the castle walls was 20 Euro – to enter the castle another 20, or 35 for the pair, and to stand on the set of King’s Landing a further 10. And people were queuing up to pay,,,,,,,,

I followed the loop back uphill a bit, and then followed the signs to the main port. Decided to catch the 4:30 ferry to Split, and camp there. Found a pleasant pub with handy and clean toilets, and did some stuff – mushroom risotto for lunch, which stayed down, but I had to work to keep it there, and mailed a few postcards.


The ferry hammers up the coast, stopping at 3 or 4 places along the route, and there are several ferry companies, all with different schedules and islands to stop at. A couple I chatted to were on a package deal from London; return airfares, 5 nights B and B in a five star resort, all for two hundred pounds, Cheap as.

I lost lunch soon after, and not through sea sickness.

The endless line of cliffs followed us up the coast,and you could see the road, clinging on, trying to keep half way up. Glad to have taken the ferry; this coast is a roller coaster, and my legs are tired of climbing for a day or two.

I arrived in Split around 9:00 pm – there was a guy offering rooms, nearby, en suite, wifi – cheap – so I followed him. Nearby wasn’t, really; then the room was on the 3rd floor, no lift, and nowhere to put the bike – “in your room” my putative host suggested.  I declined, I recall Ian, Mariette and I having a similar experience in Budapest. I wandered back through the centre, and found the Hotel Bellevue – 3 stars, and they had a room. I’m here for two nights.

I’ve got nothing in my system currently, and my guts are bubbling away – time to find a chemist, methinks.


See you down the road.







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